Are beautiful, healthy lawns only cosmetic in purpose? Should pesticides be avoided at all costs? What about weeds…..aren’t they not all that bad? And does fertilizer just make lawns green with no other positive benefits?
There are some misperceptions and myths about lawns and lawncare and the beneifits that healthy lawns provide. The tools that are used by lawncare professionals, such as fertilizers and herbicides, are sometimes given a bad rap. However the professional lawncare industry which LawnAmerica is proud to be part of, has proven to be a valuable part of our urban environment and community.
Lawns and landscapes in the Carolina region are much more than just for aesthetics, but also provide environmental, safety, and economic benefits to us all. Those healthy lawns and landscapes don’t just magically appear either, as it takes good tools such as fertilizers and herbicides, applied professionally, to help do the job.
For more information on dispelling some of the myths of caring for lawns, Click Here to read more.
Another new year is upon us, so the LawnAmerica team is busy preparing for another year in providing lawns that our customers love while making our world a little greener. We typically will begin our spring weed-control later in January, as long as the North Carolina weather cooperates, which often does not happen. But if we’re lucky and the sun is shining, we’ll start in with our pre-emergent treatment that prevents crabgrass and other grassy weeds from germinating. Barricade, the product we use, is really good. However even Barricade will not prevent all weeds from coming up, especially broadleaf weeds. Those will need to be sprayed after they germinate, later during the spring. This is one reason why successful lawn care needs a program, with consistent treatments, about every 5-8 weeks in our case.
Our very best program is our 7-Step Showcase Care Program, with lawn treatments about every 5-6 weeks. All of our programs include this important Step 1 Spring Weed-Control, as the pre-emergent herbicide is so important in setting the stage for successful weed-control during the season. Lawncare is like anything else….you generally get what you pay for. So the more frequently your lawn is serviced with weed-control and fertilization, the better the results will be.
While we are a week away from going out to treat lawns, we’re busy with staff education, planning, working on equipment, and many other projects in preparation for a great, and greener 2017 at LawnAmerica!
Fall is finally here in North Carolina, and the changing leaves have been nice, but can be a real chore for homeowners when they start piling up on the ground. Clearing leaves off the lawn prevents suffocation, letting the turf breathe in preparation for spring. Newly seeded fescue can especially can be damaged from heavy leaves piling up the turf. And while leaving fallen foliage on beds and borders can eventually generate useful mulch, this creates a slippery mess on driveways, pavements, patios and paths.
So what is the best way to clear dead leaves out of your high-use areas?
- Mowing the leaves and mulching the clippings is a great way to take care of the leaves, as long as they are not too heavy. Leaf clippings will decompose and actually add valuable organic material back into the soil with time.
- If leaves are heavy, use a leaf blower to blow onto a plastic tarp into a pile, which can then be carried off the lawn for disposal. We recommend making a compost pile with dead leaves, grass clippings, and other organic material.
- One can go “old school” and just carefully rake the leaves. But do so without causing any damage to tender fescue seedlings that may be growing in the turf.
- If leaves need to be hauled off to a re-cycling landfill, put into paper bags if possible.
So give your lawn a chance to breath, and it looks much nicer, by clearing the lawn of leaves. Most have fallen by now and it’s a great time to do so. And with the drought we are still in, don’t neglect some winter watering also on trees, turf, and shrubs.
Needless to say, it’s very dry still in western North Carolina and into the Charlotte area. The current drought map shows the extend of what we are facing now, with exceptional drought in many of the western areas, including Asheville. Forrest fires are consuming miles of dry forest and causing smoke to fill the air. While this is all bad, homeowners in our area are facing watering restrictions, making it very challenging to provide enough water for their parched lawns and landscapes.
Our lawns and landscapes are a big investment, and an important part of our home value, aesthetics, and urban environment. So caring for it is important, and the most important thing one can do now is find a way to irrigate enough to keep plants alive. The good news, if there is any, is that with cooler temperatures, soil moisture will not evaporate as much and plants are not utilizing as much. So one does not have to water as frequently, maybe once a week will suffice. Make it a good soaking though and get the water down deep into the soil. And if you have fescue seedlings trying to come up and grow, lighter sprinkling even by hand will be in order, as those roots are still fairly shallow. And after our fall fertilization on fescue, the fertilizer needs to be watered into the soil to be effective.
So please try to keep your lawn and landscape watered some, and pray for rain, as we all need it.
With the warm fall, we’ve been mowing lawns a lot deeper into the season, but the grass will be slowing down soon. If you are done mowing for the year, it’s a good idea to service your mower before putting it away for the season. Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer. Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy, causing damage to the engine. A few drops of oil squirted inside the spark plug hole (after you remove the spark plug) will help lubricate the cylinder. While you have the spark plug removed, go ahead and replace it with a new one. If your equipment has a battery, clean the battery terminals with a wire brush.
Now is also an excellent time to sharpen mower blades so they’ll be ready next spring. Sharpening rotary mower blades is fairly easy, and really should be done several times per season. A good, sharp blade is really important for a proper cut on the grass, and helps with the health of your turf.
The following steps will guide you through this process:
* Check the blade for major damage. If you can’t fix it, it should be replaced.
* Remove nicks from the cutting edge, using a grinding wheel or hand-file.
* If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.
* Grind or file until the edge is 1/32 inch, about the size of a period.
* With a grinding wheel, avoid overheating the blade as this may warp it.
* Clean the blade with solvent or oil, much like if you were cleaning a gun, for optimum winter storage. Do not use water because it will promote rust.
It’s early November in Carolina, and our azaleas in our front landscape are in full bloom! What’s up with that? With such a long stretch of warm weather into mid and now late fall, some plants such as my azaleas think it’s springtime I guess. It can be normal for some varieties to show a few blooms in fall, but my bushes appear to have about 50% of the buds in bloom. Therefore next spring, since these buds are spent, I’ll have a less than stellar show of color on our azaleas.
Can’t say if it’s a sign of global warming, or just another very warm fall with signs of a warm winter. I do know that it affects plants, trees, and turf in the landscape and is tricking them to do wierd things. It’s very dry also, so some turf is under drought stress sending it into dormancy in a stressful state, which can be a problem next spring. And if you have fescue that was seeded this fall, then we recommend to irrigate your lawn some to help alleviate stress on your turf.
And where is our fall color on trees? The hot and dry fall has sure affected that also, with many tree leaves just turning brown. And without those crisp, cool nighttime temperatures, the bright yellow, orange, and red pigments of tree leaves are still being masked by the green chlorophyll that still seems to be hanging on.
Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs (especially daffodils) and tulips in October to give them enough time to root before winter. But it is certainly not too late to plant them now, as the temperatures have been warm, leading to a warm soil temperature. As long as the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs should continue root development. Most garden centers still have a good selection, and they can be purchased on-line also. Try to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout. While many bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, none can tolerate poorly drained soil. Prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix into the soil.
Good fertility is essential. Use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 2/3 pound per 100 square feet. Organic sources of fertilizers low in phosphorus include blood meal (12-0-0) applied at 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, cottonseed meal (6-0.4-1.5) applied at the rate of 10 pounds per 100 square feet and soybean meal (7-2-1) applied at the rate of 8 pounds per 100 square feet. Mix all fertilizers and amendments thoroughly with the soil before planting the bulbs.
The size and species of the bulb determine how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the bulb should be about 2 to 3 times the size of the bulb, but check the planting instructions specific to each particular flower. We recommend planting in bare or open areas in the landscape bed, to compliment shrubs and other plants growing there. Plant in bunches, with at least 6 in each bunch. Don’t plant out in the lawn, as it not only looks weird, they will also be harmed when applying turf weed-control products during the spring.
Although we often think of soil testing as a spring chore, fall is actually a great time. At LawnAmerica, we offer soil testing for a $20 fee, working with a laboratory in Ohio, and can send you results within a few weeks. We can test your lawn, or if you have a garden, are happy to do that also.
For lawns, we are mainly looking at what your soil pH is. The acidity or alkalinity of a substance is measured in pH units, a scale running from 0 to 14, with a pH of 7 being neutral. As the numbers decrease from 7, the acidity increases. As numbers increase from 7, the alkalinity increase. Soils generally range from a very acidic pH of 4 to a very alkaline pH of 8. This range is a result of many factors, including a soil’s parent material and the amount of yearly rainfall an area receives. Most cultivated plants and turf enjoy slightly acidic conditions with a pH of about 6.5.
If a soil test shows the pH not being in the preferred range from about 5.8-7.2, we’ll recommend several treatments of either lime or sulfur in order to amend the soil. At very acidic or very alkaline levels, certain soil nutrients are tied up in the soil and not available. So, the nutrients, such as Iron for example, may be in the soil, but the plant cannot utilize it if the pH is too alkaline. With acidic soils, nutrients such as Phosphorus and Potassium are tied up and not available. So with low pH soils, we’ll apply granular lime to raise the pH gradually. On alkaline soils, we apply granular sulfur to help lower the pH. No more than two treatments per season should be applied, and late fall is a great time to do so if needed.
If your soil test suggests more organic matter, and most soils in the urban areas of North Carolina are short of this, fall is a much better season to add organic matter to gardens or lawns. Organic materials are more available than in the spring, and fresher materials can be used without harming young tender spring-planted plants. Generally, the higher the amount of organic matter in the soil, the better for your plants.
Most Carolina soils have adequate levels of Potassium and Phosphorus, and Nitrogen is always going to be needed, as it’s utilized by plants or is lost in other ways. If a soil test shows low levels of these primary nutrients, we can adjust our fertilizers used on your lawn and/or apply a supplemental treatment during the late fall, winter, or early spring. In our part of the country, most soils are on the acidic side. So we sometimes will apply granular lime as part of our regular service instead of regular fertilizer. Contact us now for a soil test, and if the soil chemistry is not ideal, it’s a good time to begin applying amendments to correct.
The last days of summer have faded away, so now is the time to fertilize cool-season tall fescue to strengthen plant and turf roots so that it comes out strong next spring. Late fall is the most important fertilization of the season for fescue in the Carolinas. So with the R6 Fall Treatment on fescue, we provide a good granular fertilization. For warm-season turf, we are applying something totally different, a liquid pre and post-emergent herbicide. So as just about always, we are treating fescue differently compared to warm-season bermudagrass or zoysiagrass.
On fescue turf that has been seeded earlier this fall, this granular fertilization provides a boost of nitrogen for growth, along with other soil nutrients for plant health. After not growing much during the winter, early spring warmth will then stimulate much earlier spring green-up with the nutrition provided from the fall fertilization. “Fall fertilization is the foundation for a successful turfgrass fertility program,” says John S. Kruse, Ph.D, a research agronomist with Koch Agronomic Services, LLC. “Winter survival and spring green-up depend, to a significant degree, on a sound fall fertilizer application, particularly when combined with timely cultural practices.” We also will carefully spot-treat any existing winter annual broadleaf weeds with a liquid weed-control at this time of year. There usually are not many broadleaf weeds now, and we have to be careful not to harm any new fescue seedlings.
We DO NOT apply a fall pre-emergent to fescue turf in the fall, as this would harm fescue seeding. We assume that homeowners will overseed in the fall, so we do not apply pre-emergent to fescue as we do on bermudagrass or zoysiagrass. About the only grassy weed that comes up in the fall may be some annual bluegrass in places. It usually blends in with the turf or is not much of an issue in healthy fescue turf. If it is, then we do offer a supplemental treatment of Prograss Weed-Control, which can be safely applied in early December without harming new fescue seedlings.
Fall is not only an ideal time to fertilize turf, it’s also an ideal time to give trees and shrubs that important boost as the winter months near. Late Fall is the ideal time for deep-root fertilization, so we’ll start this service sometime in late November and on into December.
We are about to wrap up the window of opportunity for seeding tall fescue in Carolina lawns now that we are into October. It’s best to seed fescue from mid-September to about mid-October, allowing for the seed to germinate and grow some before winter sets in. Then as the warm spring weather hits in March and April, new fescue turf will quickly develop maturity, thicken up, and develop a stronger root system, increasing the chances for surviving the summer heat and disease pressures. Using a blend of quality fescue seed is very important, especially in keeping other weeds and foreign grass types out of the turf. Proper soil preparation is vital, in making sure that the seed comes into contact with the soil to germinate. The most important factor though is keeping the seed bed moist for at least 10 days, and not allowing it to dry out.
At LawnAmerica, we recommend watering 3 times daily if possible for about 15 minutes per watering if possible. If you don’t have an irrigation system, that will be tougher to do. So you can water once a day for longer, and then go out by hand and lightly sprinkle once or twice daily. And, if we are lucky enough to get one of those nice fall soaking rains, then that is ideal, so you can cut back on some of your irrigation. It’s been a dry fall though, after a dry summer, so you’ll need to help out a bunch, since Mother Nature does not seem to be helping much. After about 10 days, new seedlings should be popping up through the soil, so you can cut back to about once per day watering, but for a longer duration, to get the soil wet at deeper levels and stimulate the new roots to grow deep. As the seedlings reach about 3-4″ in height in a few weeks, you can carefully mow for the first time. And by then, you should be able to cut back even more on the irrigation frequency, while watering longer (up to 30 minutes per cycle) for deeper wetting of the soil.
The bottom line is that it is hard to over-water your fescue seedlings in the fall. Better for too much water than not enough. We’ve seen too many cases where we use the best seed, do a great job of seeding, only to have a homeowner neglect the discipline of watering the new seed and it just does not come up, or dies soon after germinating. So we need your help! And, when leaves start falling soon, it’s important to keep those raked up, so the tender seedlings will not be smothered. When you mow, remove your leaves by using a bagger to keep your fescue turf free of leaves later in the fall.